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Everything you need to know about Äpfelwein
When
Frankfurts local poet Friedrich Stoltze wrote down the
words “Un es will mir net in den Kopp enei, wie kann nor
a Mensch net von Frankfort sei!” („I
just can’t understand, how a person can not be from
Frankfurt!“), he should have added “and not know the
applewine!”
A real Frankfurter knows his national
drink: Applewine. And he loves it more than anything
else. And of course he knows all the pubs and bars in
and around Frankfurt. He has a favourite pub, where he
feels at home, where he has his own regular place, and
everybody knows that he can be found there.
Frankfurters have a heart of gold, so
people from other places (so called “Eigeplackte”,
“Messfremde” and “Zugelaafene”) are always welcome to
have a seat at their table. Soon they will have a
conversation, because Frankfurters like to talk a lot –
or “babble” as they say here.
The discussion starts with “Ei gude
wie – wo komme se denn her?” (Hello, where are you
from?), you get closer, and after some drinks of
applewine, you get to talk to each other, like to an old
friend.
Applewine is said to be a refreshing
drink, with not too much alcohol, that doesn’t make you
tired, and has a positive influence on your vital
system. It contains organic fruit acids, minerals,
flavour, and at least 5% alcohol, which is the reason,
that people like to drink that much of it.
The
love for the “Stöffche”:
(That’s
how Frankfurters call their applewine) even makes it a
panacea for the soul and a regulative for the health.
That’s what Emmerich Reeck says: “The Stöffche is good
for everything, it cleans the stomach and loosens the
mouth.” Former mayor Walter Kolb pointed out another
effect of drinking too much, when he spoke from the
balcony of the city hall “Römer”: “The applewine of
Sachsenhausen is very special: it works its way to the
head or to the pants.” Studies of well reputated
scientists with 200 patients have shown, that applewine
has a widening effect on vessels, improves the cerebral
perfusion and decelerates the aging process. Now you
know, why there are so many elderly but strong applewine
drinkers. They are taking their medicine
regularly every day.
In
Frankfurt and its surroundings, applewine is known for
more than 250 years. Its history, however, is much
older. Germanic tribes have been brewing their “Ephiltranc”,
greeks and romans cultivated it, and emperor Karl the
Great told his subjects to produce it in his “Capitulare
de villis”. Applewine was a homemade drink for everyone.
The members of the city council and the wealthy citizens
of the city used to drink their (grape-)wine, which was
grown just outside the city walls. Pubs and inns used to
serve (grape-)wine to their guests. Beer and spirits
weren’t so important in these days. Only when
viniculture decreased due to several wars, changing
climate and bad harvests caused by vine pest, applewine
gained importance. Now it was served in pubs and inns,
and soon became the typical drink for the people of
Frankfurt and Hessen. It was first served in semi
professional, so called “Heckenwirtschaften”, but soon
many concessionary also started serving it. Many
gardeners started their own applewine-pubs. The long
time homemade drink became a regular beverage with an
official licence. Not many things have changed since
then. And that’s how people like it. A guaranty for
things to stay that way is the “Vereinigung der
Äpfelweinwirte”, which was founded in 1919. Just one
thing changed: The taste. Today, applewine drinkers
prefer it aromatic and tangy, with fine fruit acids –
especially since more and more women started to drink
applewine. In the old times it was a privilege for men
to go to the pubs. Women were only accepted to accompany
their husbands on Sundays. But luckily times have
changed. Women are going out on their own nowadays. In
general you have a rustic meal with your applewine, but
you can also have something roasted, grilled and even
vegetarian dishes with it.
As a foreigner coming to Frankfurt,
you shouldn’t miss to taste the original applewine in an
original applewine-pub, which you can tell by the Bembel
– the typical applewine-jug – in a chaplet. This is the
symbol for the membership of the “Vereinigung der
Äpfelweinwirte” (the Association of the innkeepers of
applewine-pubs).The first sip might taste a little sour.
But after a few more glasses form the “Bembel” you will
sing along with the others praising the “Stöffche” in
several songs. And if you are lucky, and our applewine-queen
welcomes you in person, also you will say: "Frankfort
beim Eppelwei, ach was biste so schee!" (Frankfurt and
applewine – it’s just brilliant). May the applewine
still be the light, inexpensive drink for everybody. Who
ever has been drinking it as “Süßer” (must), “Neuer
Heller” (new wine) or “Alter” (old wine), will never
pass a pub with the bembel in the chaplet, without
having a drink there. That’s how it was in the old days,
and it will remain forever.
Source:
Vereinigung der Äpfelweinwirte Frankfurt am Main und
Umgebung e. V.
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